Mon 4 Mar 2013 The End

Today is the final day in Nepal for David and me. After breakfast we say goodbye to Mike who had been dragged off to a breakfast Rotary meeting and was then interviewed for TV. Otherwise a free morning then we take the taxi to the airport for the last time and get the 5pm flight to Abu Dhabi.

David is then flying on to Manchester arriving early tomorrow morning whilst I jump off at Abu Dhabi to spend 8 days with my daughter and my son-in-law for some R&R. Liz is flying out to meet me there and should arrive 30 minutes before me.

If you have followed this blog you will realise we had little time for sightseeing and holiday whilst here with our time in Daraun, Pokhara and the last days in Kathmandu being taken up on Rotary business. However, I don't think we would change much and I believe everyone enjoyed their time in Nepal but no doubt they will confirm this in their own way.

The past days have been an uplifting experience and one that I will look back on for many years to come. It certainly challenges and changes the way you think of Nepal.

We look forward to sharing our trip with you at our club night on 29th April when wives are also invited so put it in your diaries and try to be there.

Namaste,
Terry

Sun 3 Mar 2013 Kathmandu

This is our last full day in Kathmandu. Spent the morning shopping in Thamel amid the noise, horns, hustle and bustle of this city.

Major Lil picked us up at 3pm and took us to the Purna Orphanage where Purna supports 15 children from the Dolpa and Gorkha regions. We were welcomed and the children danced for us.

We then went to the Valley Orphanage where Major Lil and Krishna support 10 children from the Panchamul Valley with the help of Krishna's sister Bindu.












We moved on to the Panchamul Valley Public School where we were honoured guests. Krishna is the Founding Director and Major Lil is the Chairman. Again the children danced and sang for us.

At 7:30pm we joined Rotarians of RC Himalayan Gurkhas for a meal.

Sat 2 Mar 2013 to Kathmandu

David and Mike were up early to catch the 7:30am tourist bus to Kathmandu. John and I had a leisurely breakfast and got the taxi to the airport at 10:30 for an 11:35 flight to Kathmandu.

As the flight was on time John came back to the Radisson for lunch before returning to the airport for his flight to Abu Dhabi and home.

David and Mike eventually arrived at the hotel at 15:30 which didn't leave much time to relax and shower before meeting Major Lil and Krishna from RC Himalayan Gurkhas.

We were taken to the Bhadrakali English Medium School and were honoured Guests at their Congratulations and Farewell Programme for year 9 students which started 5:30pm with Terry lighting the flame There were many speeches including one from Terry and we were presented with the usual khata (silk scarf), a token of love and some flowers. The speeches lasted until 6:50pm then the concert started. Following this certificates were presented to the final year students and we were asked to assist in the presentations. The evening ended at 8:30pm.

Fri 1 Mar 2013 RC Pokhara Fishtail

Jayendra picked us up at 8:45am and drove us to Binod's house for tea. We met Goan, Past President of club and Binod's family.

As we drove to the Lo Kumphen school we drove through Pokhara and every few yards there was some construction project. We pass tyre repairers and I can't imagine people in the UK changing and repairing truck tyres by hand without any mechanical aid.

We drive out of Pokhara with the Annapurnas ahead of us then turn into the yard of the Lo Kumphen school. We were warmly greeted by the Amchi and ushered into his office for a welcome tea. We were treated to Tibetan tea which was an unusual concoction with salt and butter. Strangely it appears to help my sore throat. We exchanged gifts and the Amchi offered us some pills to help our cough.

We were taken on a tour of the boys, girls and staff sleeping quarters which as by now we expected were very basic. There were 5 classrooms for years 2 to 6 and we visited each of these. The children were neatly dressed in school uniform and they were very polite when we entered. mike spoke to each and wished them well when they returned to their parents and homes in Mustang in 16 days time.

Jayendra and Binod then took us to visit 2 micro loan recipients. First was a metalworker who set up his business with the help of a micro loan 4 months ago and now employs 2 additional staff. The second was a peanut seller who was injured following an explosion and has been selling her wares from her bicycle counter for 4 months.

We returned to the hotel for lunch then had a gentle stroll along the shop fronts.

At 5:30pm we attended the club meeting of RC of Pokhara Fishtail. RC of Dronfield were also in attendance. During the business meeting we were each presented with Rotary scarves and a Token of Love by President Raju. President John addressed the meeting and presented Binod with a PHF+Sapphire. Mike Bamford then addressed the club and presented the RC of Pokhara Fishtail with a Certificate of Appreciation which is the club equivalent of a PHF. Following the meeting we had a meal and an evening of fellowship. All too soon we had to take our leave amid questions of when we would return. Everyone had a thoroughly enjoyable evening.

Thu 28 Feb 2013 Majhkot

We waited in the morning sunshine for our bus into the hills with the Rotary Club of Pokhara Fishtail. We are going to Majhkot to inaugurate a water project that we financed for Majhkot village and Shivalaya School. Whilst we are waiting 10 members and wives from RC Dromfield arrive.

Our bone shaker bus arrived and we knew we were on the road as we could see it through the floor. We bounced along the main highway to Kathmandu for just over an hour. David and Mike are enduring the road to Kathmandu on Saturday as they decided to return via the tourist bus which takes 7 hours!!

Suddenly we are advised that we are about to turn onto the rough road. The torque on this bus is fully utilised as we crawl steadily upwards from the valley floor. We are climbing 1500 feet with the cliff face on one side and a shear drop on the other. It is definitely mountain goat territory. Our hopes of not meeting another vehicle on this single track are dashed when, at a corner, we encounter a bus heading downhill. Our driver reverses extremely close to the edge whilst manoeuvring before driving forward past the other buss.

We arrive at a viewpoint and stop to climb a small hill to see the magnificent vista of the Annapurnas. It is quite spectacular and the best mountain range I have ever seen. We drove on until we reached some buildings where we were met by the village chairman and presented with a rhododendron bloom (the national flower of Nepal).

Binod then told us that we are to walk back along the road to visit the source of the water for our project. When we reached the turn off the road Binod advised there were 2 tracks, a difficult one and an easy one. Mike took the hard one while the rest of us took the easier route. Easier maybe, but it was along the hillside. Most of the way the track was no more than 12" wide, at times no more than a shoe width whilst sloping downhill and occasionally over a gap. This photo was taken on one of the easier sections and to the right is steep drop down the hillside. Now I am no mountain goat so I was only too pleased to have a helping hand from one of the ladies of the village, Babata. On reaching our destination we were shown the holding tank at the source of the water. The water is then piped from here to the village a distance of 3.5km. Binod mentions that the ladies of the village are particularly pleased with the project as it saves them walking many kilometres to get water and to carry it back to their homes. We then returned to the bus with more hand holding assistance.

We can hear the sound of the local band. We drive up to the village then start a processional walk down to the new tank following the band. With each step taken we realise we will need to walk back and it is uphill. At the tank President John and President Raju cut the tape and unveil the plaque in a formal opening ceremony. On our return we are given a formal welcome with red tika and garlands from the ladies of the village. Lunch follows. First a snack of special bread for important guests with a very spicy potato and vegetable curry. The bread is deep fried. Then, yes you have guessed it, daal baht.

Many formal speeches and presentations follow with each of us being presented with a hat and a Token of Love. Next was the usual dancing which did not continue for long as it was getting late and we needed to start back as it would be dark before we returned to our hotel.

We made our farewells and everyone piled into and onto the bus with the band sitting on the top playing as we go. It is 5pm when we set off.

We make our way slowly downhill, brakes squealing for submission. It seems even bumpier going down and any padding that was in the seats when they were new many many years ago has disappeared and our bodies are jolted down the hillside for 2 hours.

It suddenly turns dark just before we reach the bottom and it doesn't help when we reach the road. We swerve to miss potholes and brake to miss bumps with the front wheels but as we accelerate the rear wheels hit the bump and we are bounced again. As we reach the outskirts of Pokhara there are no street lights. The road width is just wide enough for 2 vehicles but sometimes not. Large oncoming wagon that don't stay tight on their side of the road force us to brake and drive partly on the hard earth at the side of the road. Oncoming vehicles pass other vehicles coming towards us also forcing us to take evading action. Push bikes don't have lights are are only seen in the headlights of other vehicles. Vehicles peep their horns at pedestrians walking along the edge of the road but they walk on uncaring and vehicles need to manoeuvre to overtake pedestrians.

We arrive back at Temple Tree Hotel at 19:45. It has been a long and tiring day but very enjoyable. We need to be up early tomorrow as we have more visits in the morning.

Wed 27 Feb 2013 Return to Pokhara

We are to catch the local van partway down the hill and then walk the rest of the way to the footbridge. But first the ladies of the village turn out to anoint us one last time with the red tika dye and hang garlands of flowers around our necks.

It turns out the "van" is a Land Rover type vehicle with the back converted to two long bench seats the length of the vehicle. Normally the vehicle is only used for cargo but as the main highway (for which read, rocky road) is closed for repair the van also doubles as the local bus. Our bags were loaded on the top. Mike jumped into the front and the rest of us with Major Lil and Capt Laxman plus our hand luggage jump into the rear. Two young lads also stood on the rear. With the driver there were 9 of us bouncing our way down the hill in relative "comfort". However at various points down the hill the driver tooted his horn and people would come out for the bus. By the end there were 19 of us on the bus. 3 in the front (including the driver), 2 on the roof, 3 hanging on the back and 11 squashed in the back with all our rucksacks and whatever else the other travellers were carrying. Oh and not forgetting the dog!!

Apparently some of the passengers were taking the bus to Syangja the closest town and also the main town of the Syangja district which includes the Panchamul valley. There they will visit the doctor then wait all day until the bus makes the returned trip to the valley. If they are unwell, the bus drive down and back up the rocky road is not going to help.

Eventually we reached a junction where disembarked as we had decided to trek down the rest of the way to the valley floor. The weather was sunny and warm as we walked downhill past the houses, cowsheds, haystacks and terraced fields taking the opportunity to turn around and look back at where we had been. High on the centre ridge stood the white buildings of Daraun School and Egrets flew over the farmland. By 11am we reached the bridge at the shop and waited there for a short time until our 4x4 arrived to drive us back to Pokhara.

The difference down here by comparison to the hill villages is marked. Whilst they still use cows to pull a wooden plough we never saw any vehicle in the hills apart from delivery trucks. Within 5 minutes on the valley floor we passed 3 fairly modern tractors.

After about 30 minutes of rough track we reach the blacktop road. This doesn't mean things are any smoother as we try to dodge the potholes and bumps. Mike sat in the front again and whilst he endured the same white knuckle ride we did, he could see what was coming. Not sure that is a good idea and I am sure he tried to stomp his foot to the floor in an effort to brake.

We arrived back at the Temple Tree Hotel about 13:15 and after quickly dropping off our bags and washing our faces of the red tika dye we meet in the bar for a drink and a Club sandwich and chips! Bliss.

In the evening we meet up with Binod and 3 other Rotarians from Pokhara Fishtail for a meal at a local Chinese restaurant. We persuaded them not to take us to a Nepalese restaurant after our week in the hills. Binod and two of the others have been to Bingley and we had a lovely evening with them.

Tue 26 Feb 2013 Farewell Ceremony

Another bright morning. Whilst David and I are better than we were we are still feeling chesty and under the weather again.

We went back to the school to complete our final training session and to finish updating the computers. Unfortunately the Internet was not working again. We eventually found that it was a cable problem which causes us an issue as to whether the teachers would be able to cope and analyse any fault. So in addition to completing the Excel training we took them through which cables needed to be checked and how to unplug and plug them back in.

After lunch we met with the headmaster, teachers and school management committee to deliver a closing address. Following this there was a farewell ceremony which began with every schoolchild greeting us with garlands of flowers after the mothers had put the red powder on our foreheads. The flowers were very heavy and we sat through the first dance performed by the children.

During the next part of the ceremony we presented the headmaster with a BARC banner and presented BARC badges to the headmaster, Capt Laxman Gurung, Lt Man Bahader Gurung, the 2 IT teachers (Durga and Jaya) and Major Lil Bahader Gurung. We were then made Honorary Advisers to the school and Capt Laxman presented us with plaques. Terry and the headmaster then officially signed the Memorandum of Understanding.

Following this students performed for us again. Then the inevitable happened. It was announced that the girls were to dance for the last time and as expected when the music started they came over to us to join them in the dance. Of course we could not refuse a final dance. The mothers group also joined in.

Tonight we are advised Capt Laxman is hosting our meal and it has been said that the mothers group are not coming round as the electricity is again off until 9pm.

We were wrong. By 9pm not one but 2 mothers groups started to congregate. In the end there were about 35 members and they mainly sang to entertain us with a little dancing. As usual, Nepali time meant it did not draw to a close until 22:30 so again we did not start our main meal until very late.